News

The quality of our jewellery is something that we are immensely proud of and the way that our jewellery is made and constructed is of paramount importance.  We truly hand make our pieces: we forge our jewellery by hand without the use of wax models, casting or prefabricated pieces of any kind. 

There are very very few jewellers that manufacture truly handmade rings. Many jewellery companies claim to make bespoke, one-off, custom made rings, when actually they are using the casting method. Cast production includes:

1. Carving an original one-off ring in wax, getting it cast and polishing. This is not handmade.

2. Buying cast components and soldering them together. This is not handmade.

3. Designing a ring using CAD (Computer Aided Design program), printing a wax ring from that design, and casting it; again this is not handmade.

What is the casting method?

Casting begins with the designs being carved by hand or a CAD/CAM machine into wax models, then a specialised plaster is then cast around them on a "tree".

Once the plaster has set, the wax is melted out, leaving cavities inside the plaster. Molten metal is then poured into these cavities. When the metal has cooled, the plaster mold is removed and the individual jewellery pieces are clipped off the “tree”.  The pieces are then polished and the gemstones are set. 

Truly hand made jewellery (or as we like to call hand fabricated.)

Hand fabricated is the rarest type of jewellery construction. It means taking a raw piece of cold-rolled metal wire, bar or sheet of precious metal, such as Platinum or Gold, then through a process of cutting, hammering, shaping and annealing (heating), the precious metal is shaped into the required design. It is this process of heating and annealing that hardens the metal which the casting process skips, making handmade jewellery almost 50% harder than cast jewellery.

Handmade benefits:

• Inherently stronger therefore increased security for your precious stones.

• Much much tougher than cast pieces therefore can withstand the strain of day to day life. Cast metals are softer and lighter as they have been heated to a liquid state, cooled quickly and not hammered.

• No chance of porosity (bubbles in the surface or just under) or crystallisation which are common faults in the casting process.

• Holds the polished finish much better, doesn't scratch as easy and holds the shape of the design. Cast items do not wear as well as truly hand made pieces.

• Crisper finish which is lacking in cast items; as a cast piece is usually created in one go, hard to reach areas are often left unpolished.

• Modifications or alterations during making process are much easier

• The range and complexity of designs we can offer is infinitely increased.  We are able to set more finely and delicately due to the stronger metals and also we can offer "tension set" rings.

• Can be made more quickly; unlike sending orders to a casting factory which usually work on a timetable.

• The finished piece will be totally unique - small “imperfections”, characteristics or changes are intrinsic to the process of handmaking a ring.

• You can add your own twists to a design: we are not limited by any software. 

While we are specialists in hand fabricating jewellery, we do offer to make some of our designs by cast. The casting factory that we use only use the finest and strongest cast metal alloys available and the designs we offer to be cast are selected extremely carefully. However we prefer to hand make whenever and wherever possible as the quality finish and strength of the piece is second to none.   

Cut is the most important factor in selecting diamonds at Carolyn Codd's and we have found that it is the least understood as it is so so complex and technically difficult to analyse. Truly excellently cut diamonds are cut with high precision and exceptional craftsmanship and are not only valuable and truly beautiful but extremely rare.

Not to be confused with shape (heart, oval, round, pear, etc), a diamonds cut grade is in essence an evaluation of how well the facets and proportions of the diamond returns light to the observer. But of course it doesn't stop there. Light return is one huge factor but there is also Fire and Brilliance to consider and that you cannot fully appreciate from reading a diamond report (or "certificate") alone.

Triple Excellent Diamonds

"Triple Excellent" refers to the modern round brilliant shape. Here the cut grade is evaluated in three areas: Overall cut grade, symmetry and polish.

There are, in truth, many modern round brilliant diamonds that are graded Triple Excellent by the GIA but why do some shine brighter than others? 

We have found throughout the years of examining diamonds ourselves that Triple Excellent diamonds do vary massively and the only way you can truly ensure that the diamond you are looking at is truly excellent is by directly comparing them in person.

To find out more please book an appointment with our diamond experts who offer a free, no obligation talk on diamonds where you can learn more about the intrinsic details of diamond cutting and its effect on the level of light return, fire and scintillation. We will also be able to provide a range of GIA Triple Excellent Diamonds and you will be able to see the differences for yourself.

Carolyn Codd's pride ourselves on originality, fine quality, true value for money and the best experience possible. 

Our traditional methods of producing to scale water colour paintings to present finer details of a proposed design have served us well but we feel the time is right to embrace the latest CAD software in our design process.

What is CAD?

CAD is an acronym for computer-aided design; incredibly useful for jewellery design as it enables us to create 3D models onscreen. These models can be examined from any angle and are very easily altered.

How it is used generally in the Jewellery industry?

CAD systems are widely used in the jewellery industry for designing models for mass production. Once the models are completed, the CAD file is usually sent to a CAM (computed aided manufacturing) machine for production.

However the way our jewellery is made and constructed will remain unchanged, even with our CAD system. The pure purpose of utilising CAD is to offer the opportunity to view a design from every possible angle and with the fantastic technology we now have this is now readily available.  We will still hand fabricate our designs and use the traditional hand forging that we are specialists in.

We will not use the CAD system to 3D print a model and then cast it.  For more information about the casting process vs handmade please see our previous blog post: "Cast vs Handmade: How we make our jewellery pieces" 

In today's world, a huge percentage of jewellery is mass-manufactured. With the advent of Computed Aided Design and Manufacturing software (henceforth CAD/CAM), jewellery is commonly made by a process called "casting". For large jewellery manufacturers, hundreds of the same design are created and then standard size gemstones are set into them. Casting begins with the designs being carved by the CAD/CAM machine into wax models, then a specialised plaster is then cast around them on a "tree".

Once the plaster has set, the wax is melted out, leaving a cavities inside the plaster. Molten metal is then poured into these cavities. When the metal has cooled, the plaster mold is removed and the individual jewellery pieces are clipped off the “tree”.  The pieces are then polished and the gemstones are set. 

The quality of our jewellery is something that we are immensely proud of and the way that our jewellery is made and constructed is of paramount importance. We specialise in traditional hand fabrication which means forging a piece by hand, without the use of CAD/CAM, wax models, casting or prefabricated pieces of any kind. 

Hand fabricated is the rarest type of jewellery construction. It means taking a raw piece of cold-rolled metal wire, bar or sheet of precious metal, such as Platinum or Gold, then through a process of cutting, hammering, shaping and annealing (heating), the precious metal is shaped into the required design. It is this process of heating and annealing that hardens the metal which the casting process skips, making handmade jewellery almost 50% harder than cast jewellery.

There are very very few jewellers that manufacture truly handmade rings. Many jewellery companies claim to make bespoke, one-off, custom made rings, when actually they are using the casting method. Cast production includes:

1. Carving an original one-off ring in wax, getting it cast and polishing. This is not handmade.

2. Buying cast components and soldering them together. This is not handmade.

3. Designing a ring using CAD (Computer Aided Design program), printing a wax ring from that design, and casting it; again this is not handmade.

Handmade benefits:

• Inherently stronger therefore increased security for your precious stones.

• Much much tougher than cast pieces therefore can withstand the strain of day to day life. Cast metals are softer and lighter as they have been heated to a liquid state, cooled quickly and not hammered.

• No chance of porosity (bubbles in the surface or just under) or crystallisation which are common faults in the casting process.

• Holds the polished finish much better, doesn't scratch as easy and holds the shape of the design. Cast items do not wear as well as truly hand made pieces.

• Crisper finish which is lacking in cast items; as a cast piece is usually created in one go, hard to reach areas are often left unpolished.

• Modifications or alterations during making process are much easier

• The range and complexity of designs we can offer is infinitely increased.  We are able to set more finely and delicately due to the stronger metals and also we can offer "tension set" rings.

• Can be made more quickly; unlike sending orders to a casting factory which usually work on a timetable.

• The finished piece will be totally unique - small “imperfections”, characteristics or changes are intrinsic to the process of handmaking a ring.

• You can add your own twists to a design: we are not limited by any software. 

While we are specialists in hand fabricating jewellery, we do offer to make some of our designs by cast. The casting factory that we use only use the finest and strongest cast metal alloys available and the designs we offer to be cast are selected extremely carefully. However we prefer to hand make whenever and wherever possible as the quality finish and strength of the piece is second to none.   

"Every day is different as no two jobs are the ever the same...

Recently a lady came in with a stunning AAA Grade Tanzanite. She had it wrapped in a piece of cotton and said that her brother had given it to her some years ago and she wasn't sure what to do with it. I was extremely excited as this stone was not only very special and high quality but also incredibly rare. I had plenty of ideas so Carolyn and I set to work. There was so much you could do with this beautiful Tanzanite...

"The lady wanted a piece that could be worn everyday and preferred a white metal and so chose Platinum for both durability and the high polished white finish. Platinum is far superior than any other metal and the particular alloy we use is incredibly tough. The pendant and the strong Platinum Spiga chain will truly stand the test of time and will be most suited to everyday wear.

The cut of the Tanzanite was a trillion shape but it was decided that the design was not to enhance the triangular aspect of the cut, but to add smooth sculpted lines and a touch of femininity. Fine diamonds added just the right contrast to the deep violet and blue hues present in the stone.  

Setting any Tanzanite takes the up most concentration. This stone was particularly challenging due to the shape and it did present quite a thin girdle; not exactly ideal with a delicate Tanzanite.  The setting for this piece was specifically designed not only to make the most out of this stunning Tanzanite, but to keep it safe and secure while wearing. By unifying the latest laser technology with other making techniques and tooling used for centuries enables us to make some of the most wonderful and technically difficult pieces.

Making this pendant was a joy to do, even at it's most challenging stages. At the end of  the day I can honestly say that myself and our team at Carolyn Codd Jewellery love what we do.

A piece isn't truly finished until it is being worn by the person it was designed for. When the lady came to pick up her piece it was the absolute finishing touch. I know I say this many, many times but it really is the best job in the world!"

Bring your jewellery back to life at Carolyn Codd's....

Summer is almost over and I know that a lot of us have fallen prey to sunscreen coating our lovely diamonds. I appreciate that many of our lovely customers are not able to visit us during the week when we offer our free check and clean service so I've had a little idea...

On Saturday 2nd September, we invite you to bring your jewellery, old or new, purchased form Carolyn Codd's or not,  for a complimentary professional clean by the team at Carolyn Codd.

Danny, Carl and Cheryl will be in our workshop to bring your jewellery back to life through specialist cleaning. They will also check your jewellery for signs of wear and tear and give advice before problems develop.

If you are like me and you want to maintain your ring’s mesmerising sparkle then regular cleaning is an essential part of jewellery maintenance. Why not make the most of your visit and peruse our newest collections while enjoying a glass of complimentary prosecco and delicious homemade cake.

We will be offering this service from 11am to 3pm. We look forward to seeing you and hearing about all your summer adventures!

Kind regards,

Rhianna 

At Carolyn Codd we are see many many sources of inspiration. One of our favourite commissions was inspired by one of our clients love of Peacock colours and if you happen upon our workshop and boutique store in Nottingham you will have seen the above design on our A-board. This ring was hand carved out of a single piece of Platinum. Each setting was precisely measured for each one of the fine Opals, Sapphires, Diamonds, Amethysts, Emeralds and Topaz's selected for the perfect colour way that the lady was after.

This ring was the start of our "Peacock rings"; our signature 'Sui Generis' design taken another step and each piece created uniquely for each individual client. See above for a ring that was to be an "explosion of colour". All natural fine sapphires were selected and again this ring was hand carved out of a single piece or Platinum. 

Of course there are many many other sources of inspiration. See below a beautiful Aquamarine ring inspired by another clients' mother. This lady remembers her mother wearing an Aquamarine and diamond ring purchased by her father, and as she was unable to have the actual ring itself, she was inspired to have a ring made in the exact form that she remembers.

Inspiration can come from anywhere. Sheila Fleet, our esteemed friend and colleague from Orkney in Scotland, is very talented at using the natural and extremely beautiful surroundings of her homeland be the inspiration for her collections. Her 'Pentland' collection is named after the notorious stretch of water separating the Orkney Islands from the British mainland.  The water surges through this narrow strait between the Atlantic and North Sea creating bombastic waves; Sheila wanted to capture the drama and movement of these waves - the constant rolling motion of some of the strongest tides in the world.

Pentland Necklet: £175	Pentland drop earrings: £85
Pentland Bracelet: £195	Pendant Studs: £80

Architecture has been inspiration for some of our commissioned pieces too. Danny once carved the skyline of the Peruvian city of Lima onto a wedding ring after a gentleman decided to be married there. Another lady commissioned her ring to have the actual pattern of the ironwork of her Parisian balcony where she spent a summer perfecting her clarinet skills for an up and coming tour. One of our favourites has to be our recent Art Deco inspired ring, originating from our clients love of the architecture of the time. 

Above: Hand carved in Platinum and set with fine diamonds and Burmese Rubies. 

What will be the inspiration for your next piece of jewellery? 

We love natural coloured diamonds here at Carolyn Codd's and Rose  Pink diamonds are one of our favourites. Subtle, delicate and feminine these Rosy hues are not only beautiful but timeless. 

Pink is one of the least common colours for diamonds. Formed under intense pressure and extreme temperatures beneath the earth's surface, the colouration of these gorgeous diamonds is actually caused by structural distortions to the diamonds crystal lattice. 

The natural pink diamonds can also present many variations of secondary colours like brown, orange or even purple. The natural pink diamonds with the secondary colour of brown seem "warmer" and rosier. A perfect tone for a romantic touch to an Engagement Ring. 

As there are many variations of different natural pinks, we do offer the opportunity to view a selection of stones during the design process. We do, however, have three unique beautiful rings in our window, designed and handmade in our Nottingham workshop that we would love for you to come and take a look at.

Can we tempt you? 

Inspired by the architecture of the 1920's, this very special ring was commissioned to celebrate a 40th Wedding Anniversary.

The pattern does not repeat therefore it looks like a completely different ring at different points.

Hand carved and hand engraved, this bespoke ring is truly original. The symbolic Burmese Rubies and Fine Diamonds add a little colour and sparkle.

Here at Carolyn we are proud to host a brilliant selection of Fine Engagement Rings. We have beautiful Sapphire Engagement Rings, Diamond Engagement Rings and even Ruby Engagement Rings but what really makes our day is when ladies and gents have inspiring and original ideas of their own.

As we can source a vast number of Fine Diamonds, Natural Coloured Diamonds, Sapphires, Opals, Rubies and many more precious stones, our customers are often spoilt for choice during the design stages.

Diamonds are the most popular precious stone choice for Engagement Rings and we love to teach our customers about how to choose the right Diamond for them. We often have a good selection of loose diamonds in store but if our customers are after a particular cut, carat weight and/or colour we usually have a selection of 6/10 stones sent to us direct from our reputable diamond merchants. 

GIA Certificated Pear shape Diamond Engagement Ring; Made in Nottingham

Here is one example of an Engagement Ring made to order after our customer chose the beautiful pear shape Diamond after an in depth "lesson" from one of our diamond experts. He knew his partner wanted a pear shape diamond and he wanted to give her something a little "different". He also wanted to see photos of the ring coming together. 

Bespoke Platinum Tension Set Engagement Ring with Fine Diamond chosen by our customer. This was then flown to Abu Dhabi where the surprise proposal took place.

Sapphires are probably the next in line in popularity to Diamonds, mainly due to the hardness and durability of the crystal, but Sapphires are a real favourite at Carolyn Codd's because or the beautiful colours available. 

Many people believe that Sapphires are just dark blue but Sapphires are available in White, Black and every colour in between. Ruby is actually the same crystal as Sapphire, but is known as Ruby when it displays Red. 

Beautiful Blush Pink Sapphire with three fine round white diamonds on either side - Feminine but not too "girly"; exactly what this customer wanted.

Gorgeous Purply Pink Sapphire with grain set fine diamonds and romantic rose gold. 

Platinum and Fine Diamond Engagement ring with a "pop" of vivid pink sapphires. 

Royal Blue Sapphires surround this Stunning Princess Cut Diamond, with a "before and after" montage for the customer. 

We always try to encourage our customers to be creative with their ideas and we try to put their personality into the pieces but we do always recommend pieces to be not only beautiful and a joy to wear but practical. Opals are a wonderful stones, full of colour and are so unique but need care when wearing.  

Opal and Fine Diamond Engagement Ring

This beautiful vintage inspired Engagement Ring was commissioned by a gentleman who knew his lovely lady adored opals. With a handmade collet setting, we made sure that the opal would be safe be everyday wear.

We hope you've enjoyed reading our little blog, we'll see you next time!

At Carolyn Codd Jewellery we love making wedding rings that are designed just for the couple having them.

Whether a couple decide to have a complimenting set or have each ring designed to each individual; at Carolyn Codd wedding rings are made to reflect the unique personalities and style of our customers rather than the trends of the time.

Because we make all our of precious jewellery on site, couples can really be in control of how their wedding rings will be made and at an excellent price.  Fitted wedding rings are one of our specialities. Each of our fitted wedding rings is made to fit the actual engagement ring.

We look forward to inspiring many more brides and grooms and creating unique and beautiful wedding rings just for them!

This particular lady did have sleepless nights as different design ideas came to her in her dreams... After choosing a beautiful GIA Certified Princess Cut diamond from a selection provided Carolyn painted the design to her exact requirements... And work began...

The separate design features were individually hand made in Platinum...

Once the components were put together, the settings for the diamonds were cut out...

Then the outer diamonds were grain-set...

Once the Princess Cut was set and the mill grain detail was hand carved to give the true vintage look...

'I honestly can't find words to express how incredible the service is at Carolyn Codd. The bespoke engagement ring they made for me is absolutely beautiful! Rhianna and the whole team were so patient with me even though I changed my mind almost every week of the design process. We will never buy jewellery anywhere else again. The experience has been perfect from start to finish! Thank you so much x'